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A Toxics-Free Future

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K-Culture and the Overlooked Chemical Burden on Women

By Poyeon Kim, Wonjin Institute for Occupational and Environmental Health (WIOEH)

K-Culture, encompassing Korean music, drama, fashion, and beauty, has captured the world’s imagination with its unique blend of tradition and modernity. Can you name a Korean celebrity? Maybe you can name more than a few. When you picture them, you might imagine flawless makeup and impeccably styled outfits, as if they were born with perfect looks. Central to this phenomenon is K-Beauty, renowned for its intricate skincare routines and innovative cosmetic products. While these beauty standards apply across genders, they particularly impact women and girls, who often feel the pressure to adhere to these ideals more intensely. Beneath the surface of this cultural export lies a significant issue: the overlooked chemical burden that these beauty standards impose, especially on women.

Evolution of Beauty Standards in Korea

The history of beauty standards in Korea is deeply rooted in the country's culture. Traditionally, Korean beauty ideals emphasized natural beauty, with clear skin being a symbol of health and purity. However, this concept of 'natural beauty' has transformed in modern times, where achieving a 'natural look' often involves a meticulous and extensive use of cosmetics. Women are now encouraged to use makeup that creates the illusion of effortless beauty, with makeup applied in “natural” colors to enhance this effect. The global influence of K-Beauty has only intensified this trend, as people worldwide strive to emulate the seemingly flawless yet 'natural' looks of Korean celebrities. This shift underscores a paradox where natural beauty is not truly natural but carefully constructed, often involving multiple layers of products. This brings us to the core issue: the chemical realities behind K-Beauty's alluring facade.

As an ‘average’ Korean woman, I feel a sense of impropriety when I attend meetings without makeup, highlighting how deeply ingrained these standards have become in our daily lives. I personally connect with the issue of gender and chemicals because I’ve experienced firsthand the harmful effects of commonly used beauty products. I get rashes from using general shampoos sold in the market, and sometimes it gets so serious that my skin bleeds. After much frustration, I discovered that these reactions were caused by specific chemical ingredients, and I now avoid products containing those chemicals by carefully reading labels. However, for a long time, I blamed myself for having overly sensitive skin and for not being able to achieve the beautiful hair seen in ads. Not only was I harming my skin by using products that were wrong for me, but I was also lowering my self-esteem by trying to live up to unrealistic beauty standards. I know others must be experiencing similar issues, continuing to hurt themselves in the pursuit of these same unattainable ideals.

Chemical Realities

K-Beauty's global success is largely due to its innovative products and elaborate skincare routines, which promise clear, radiant skin. From sheet masks to serums, these products often contain a wide array of ingredients, some of which have raised concerns among scientists and consumers.

A significant number of K-Beauty products contain chemicals such as parabens, PFASs, UV-stabilizers, and synthetic fragrances. These ingredients are known for their potential health risks, including skin irritation, endocrine disruption, and even links to cancer. Despite the widespread use of these chemicals, many consumers remain unaware of the potential hazards lurking in their skincare routines. Thus, women, who are the primary consumers of beauty products, are disproportionately affected by these toxic chemicals. This overlooked chemical burden poses a serious public health concern that warrants greater attention and action.

Women's Struggle and Advocacy

Despite these challenges, women have a long history of advocating against harmful beauty standards and practices. In Korea, movements like the 'corset-free movement' have emerged, challenging traditional norms dictating how women should look and behave. Originally inspired by the rejection of physically restrictive clothing, such as corsets, this movement has expanded to criticize the pressure on women to conform to rigid beauty standards, including through the use of harmful products. For example, women have been using mercury-containing products to achieve lighter skin tones, unaware of the severe health risks from mercury poisoning that these products pose. This movement now encompasses a broader critique of the excessive use of cosmetics laden with toxic chemicals, extreme dieting, and invasive cosmetic procedures, all of which can have detrimental effects on both physical and mental health.

Steps Towards Change

Women have been struggling for bodily autonomy and health, emphasizing that beauty should not come at the cost of one's well-being. This advocacy has sparked a growing awareness among consumers, leading to an increased demand for transparency and safety in beauty products. However, the battle is far from over, as many brands still prioritize profit over consumer safety. 

The beauty industry is slowly responding to the call for safer products. There is a growing trend towards natural and organic ingredients, with some brands taking the lead in formulating products free from harmful chemicals. In Korea, several startups and brands are championing this cause, offering alternatives that are effective and safe.

However, achieving widespread change requires more than just consumer demand. It also necessitates stronger regulatory frameworks and better enforcement of existing laws. Governments and industry stakeholders must work together to ensure that all beauty products on the market are safe for use. Additionally, public advocacy campaigns can help raise awareness about the risks associated with certain chemicals, empowering consumers to make informed choices.

Conclusion

The allure of K-Beauty is undeniable, but it comes with an often-overlooked chemical burden, especially for women. As the global influence of K-Culture continues to grow, so does the responsibility to address these health concerns. By promoting transparency, advocating for safer products, and encouraging industry-wide accountability, we can work towards a future where beauty and health go hand in hand. It is time to prioritize health and safety over aesthetics and embrace a more holistic approach to beauty that respects both our bodies and our planet.

 

About Poyeon Kim

With a solid academic background in sociology, gender studies, and international relations, and a whopping 19-year stint in the global digital and mobile marketing industry, Poyeon brings a unique blend of expertise to the table. But what sets her apart is her burning passion to rid the world of toxic chemicals and plastic waste pollution, a cause she's held dear to her heart in her personal life.

Amidst the chaos of the COVID-19 pandemic, she took a bold leap, pivoting her career to join the ranks of Wonjin Institute for Occupational and Environmental Health, a science-based research institute in South Korea dedicated to occupational and environmental health for over 25 years. Since then, she's been diving headfirst into planning, operating, and coordinating joint projects with Asian NGOs, tackling issues ranging from Endocrine-Disrupting Chemicals (EDCs) to Highly Hazardous Pesticides (HHPs) and Mercury, among other toxic chemicals. And her mission doesn't stop there—she's now focused on broadening and deepening these collaborations, paving the way for a healthier, cleaner future.